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Pearl
Suspended Bass Drum Stand Assembly Instructions
(STBD32, STBD36, STBD40)
FAQ
1.
Why is a maple shell better than a birch shell?
Pearls
maple shells are formed from 100% maple. This gives the drum
a full rich tone, but also the strength needed to
ensure the drum stays in round. They
are formed with Pearls exclusive Heat Compression Shell Molding
System (HCSMS). Special glue hardens to the same density of the
drum allowing the shell to react as if it were formed from one single
ply.
2.
Why
do Pearl concert series bass drums have six air holes?
Pearl concert series bass drums have 6 acoustically located air
vents that allow for greater sensitivity. Back pressure is
also relieved to allow for unmatched response.
3.
What
are the sound characteristics of Pearl Philharmonic African Mahogany
Concert Bass Drums and Toms? (Taken from Tech Speak by Gene Okamoto)
MASTERS
MAHOGANY CLASSIC LIMITED EDITION
One of the biggest "buzzes" at the last Winter NAMM show
was the introduction of Pearl's Masters
Mahogany Classic, MHX. Full and fat sounding, they were an immediate
hit with artists and dealers. Marvin "Smitty" Smith recently
switched to MHX's on the Tonight Show and was immediately complemented
by band members on its great sound. To paraphrase Marvin, "This
came as a pleasant surprise because the band is tough to impress."
So, what makes these drums special? One word: MAHOGANY!
SOUNDS FAMILIAR
The Masters Mahogany Classic are the only professional mahogany
drums in the world today. However, mahogany drums are not new. American
drum makers used Mahogany for decades and only since the middle
'70's did maple become the prominent wood in drum manufacturing.
Virtually all drum tracks recorded prior to this time featured mahogany
drums...Ringo played mahogany drums on early Beatles songs.
LET'S CLEAR THE CONFUSION
There seems to be confusion, however, about mahogany, especially
regarding price. Browsing our and other manufacturer's catalogs,
reveals that almost all beginner and mid-range sets are made with
mahogany. MHX's, on the other hand, are priced like professional
maple sets. If they're all made from mahogany, why are the prices
so different?
To answer this, you have to understand that there's mahogany and
then there's MAHOGANY! Beginner and mid-range sets are made with
Philippine mahogany. Philippine mahogany is an abundant and therefore
relatively inexpensive wood. On the other hand, the Masters Mahogany
Classics are made with African Mahogany. This is the real deal,
the big Kahuna, the cat's meow. There are only three true mahoganies
in the world and African mahogany is one of them. African mahogany
doesn't come cheap thus explaining the price differences.
CONSTRUCTION
In the beginning of this section I mentioned older mahogany drums.
I know I'm nitpicking but most of these drums were not mahogany,
at least, not all the way through. Most vintage mahogany drums featured
3 ply shells made with mahogany and softer woods such as poplar.
They were steam bent and joined at one seam. Maple glue rings were
installed for strength and to help keep the drums round. This form
of construction made the drums sound exceptionally warm. Unfortunately,
by today's standards, the shells were not very rigid and they absorbed
much of the sound; in other words, they weren't very loud.
The MHX's, on the other hand, feature 4 ply 100% African mahogany
shells with 100% maple glue rings. They're formed using Pearl's
exclusive Heat Compression Shell Molding System
(HC/SMS) that assures tightly bonded and rigid shells. The combination
of extra strength and 100% mahogany makes these drums "sing"
loud and clear while still retaining the full, rich, warm "mahogany"
tone.
FINISH
Speaking of vintage mahogany drums, did you ever see the finish
on these drums? Most had lots of pits and valleys where the finish
didn't fill...that's because mahogany is very porous and very difficult
to finish. Now look at the Masters Mahogany Classic...smooth as
glass- you can practically comb you hair in the reflection. They're
finished in Red Mahogany (#141)...elegant and classic for generations
to enjoy.
GOING, GOING...
Hopefully by now you're a little bit curious about the Masters Mahogany
Classic's and want to check them out. That's good. I did my job.
Bye. But seriously...they may be hard to find because they're limited
edition. Ask you local authorized Pearl dealer to order a set (please
be patient) and take them for a test drive. I think you'll feel
as I do that they're worth the wait.
- Gene Okamoto
4.
How
do I fine tune my Pearl Philharmonic Concert Snare Drum?
FINE TUNING YOUR PEARL PHILHARMONIC SNARE DRUM
CONGRATULATIONS on purchasing a Pearl Philharmonic
Snare Drum. This instrument represents the state of the art in an
orchestral snare drum with many new and unique features. These drums
were designed in conjunction with many top orchestral players to
produce the best possible sound, highest quality, and ease of operation
to provide a lifetime of beautiful sound and flawless operation.
Please read the following instructions to assist you with your new
and unique instrument in order to appreciate the full musical and
mechanical possibilities.
CUSTOM FEATURES:
TRIAD SILENT STRAINER SYSTEM, THREE SNARE TYPES, CUSTOM CABLE SNARES
INCLUDING GRADUATED AND EVEN TENSION, THREE INDIVIDUAL THUMBSCREW
TENSION ADJUSTERS,
EASY ON/OFF SNARE MOUNTING (drum key only, no tools required),
SNARE BRIDGE, VINTAGE STYLE SNARE BED, SOLID MAPLE SHELL, CAST ALUMINUM
SHELL, VINTAGE STYLE TUBE LUGS
FIRST TIME SET UP/FINE TUNING
A. HEADS: Your Pearl Philharmonic is shipped
with a Remo Diplomat batter head and a Remo Diplomat snare head.
Plastic heads generally take about three months to settle and reach
an optimum point of stretch. You may tune your drum as you wish,
however we recommend that you initially tune your batter head in
the range of G-Bb for 6.5 drum and Ab-B for a 5.0 drum. The bottom
head should sound a harmonic fifth above the batter head on a 6.5
drum and a harmonic fourth above on a 5.0 drum. Note: It
is extremely difficult to hear the harmonic pitch described. However,
if you simply place your drum on a stand with the snare strainer
turned OFF and lightly tap both heads individually about two inches
from the rim, you should be able to hear it. You must do this in
a good quiet environment. It is also recommended that you check
the pull down evenness of the heads via a ruler or a veneer caliper.
Either one will help make sure that you are at a good starting point
by measuring the relation of the counter hoop to the head or the
counter hoop to the top of the lugs. You should then listen and
clear the head by ear once you have made these initial adjustments.
Be sure not to try and bring your drum up to its highest possible
range right away. Allow your heads to stretch and settle slowly
at least over a few weeks or you will only over torque them and
render them useless. The sound will become dull and devoid of tone
and ring.
B. STRAINER AND BUTT: The unique Triad Silent
Strainer requires virtually no adjustment whatsoever. Designed with
that in mind, it offers the smoothest and most quiet operation possible,
even with one finger and at high snare tension levels. The feel
remains light and smooth no matter how you like your snares adjusted,
and they can be turned on and off quickly and effortlessly during
the softest musical passages.
BUTT: The snare butt offers a master tension
adjustment to tighten or loosen all snares simultaneously. It also
offers three easy on/off drum key screws to quickly change snare
sets WITHOUT THE USE OF TOOLS! All you need is your drum key (included)
to change a set of snares. No allen wrenches, no pliers, no cumbersome
mounting cables or strings. Note: WARNING!!! NEVER UNSCREW OR TAMPER
WITH THE SOCKET HEAD SCREWS WHICH CLAMP CABLES IN PLACE, THESE ARE
PERMANENT!!!
REMOVING SNARES: If you wish to change a
set of snares and create your own combinations from original Pearl
parts, simply unscrew the thumb tension knob on the strainer side
completely, then unscrew the corresponding drum key screw on the
butt side. Its that simple! It was designed with speed and
ease of operation in mind so that you can change a set of snares
in 60 seconds.
C. SNARE FEATURES: Your Pearl Philharmonic
Snare System has several unique features. The COATED CABLE is clamped
in permanently with a graduated tension system. This gives you the
maximum dynamic range possible from this set of cables which are
intended for the loudest dynamic ranges. Other systems generally
have these cables all at one tension which require the player to
attempt to tilt these snares to achieve a graduated tension, which
is cumbersome, requires tools, and is usually a failure. Without
our unique graduated tension snares, the higher tension required
for their dynamic range only causes choking of the bottom head and
poor loud snare response. The COATED CABLE is designed to respond
perfectly and effectively from ff to mf respectively
without any gaps in that range and without distorting or choking
the sound of the bottom head. The UNCOATED STAINLESS cable is clamped
in permanently as well, but is set in an even tension system. This
provides extremely even snare contact with the bottom head for the
mf to mp dynamic range without distorting the sound
of the bottom head due to their significantly lower tension level.
The SNAPPY WIRE snares are placed in the middle of the other two
to assure perfect flat contact with the snare head which minimizes
excess snare buzz, and provides a superior soft dynamic snare response.
They are intended for the mp to ppp dynamic range
and are deliberately not plated steel wires which provides 100%
more snare presence and response than chromed wires.
D. SNARE BRIDGE: The snare bridge is designed
to assist the way all snares lay in the snare bed thus providing
perfect snare level contact with the snare head as well as facilitating
the conforming of the cables to the snare bed. This feature ensures
complete contact of your cables, particularly at each end of the
head, where most snare systems have a slight gap between the cable
and the head. The snare bed is specifically designed to be short
and quick so as not to overly affect the pitch of the bottom head
and facilitate complete snare contact.
E. FINE TUNING THE SNARES: Turn the strainer
to the ON position. First, make sure all three sets of snares are
completely disengaged and are not touching the bottom head. Begin
with your COATED CABLE by turning the thumb screw clockwise until
they begin to engage. As they come into range, strike the drum at
a f to ff volume so that they are filling that dynamic
range. Next, repeat this procedure with your UNCOATED STAINLESS
cable. Turn the thumb knob clockwise until they fill the mf
to mp dynamic range while striking the drum at that volume.
Next, repeat this procedure with your SNAPPY WIRE snares while tapping
the drum about an inch from the edge at the mp to ppp
dynamic range. Turn the thumb knob clockwise until they fill the
mp to ppp dynamic range. Leave your strainer in the
ON position when storing your drum. This will facilitate the conformation
of the cables to the snare bed and snare bridge which will eventually
create a "custom snare fit" to the drum over time, improving
their sound and response.
5.
Pearl offers some of the lightest educational kits on the market,
how much do they weigh?
The PK-600 bell kit, with its nylon backpack, weighs 12 lbs. The
PK-750 bell kit weighs in at 18 lbs. The SK-700 snare kit with nylon
backpack weighs 17 lbs. The SK-750 snare kit with the molded plastic
case weighs 22 lbs. And the PL-600 percussion kit weighs 21 lbs.
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