Pearl's Concert Percussion is world famous for it's craftsmanship and distinct sound, a sound well known to the world class artists who play them. Where the performance means everything, you'll find Pearl Concert Percussion.

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Assembly Help

Pearl Suspended Bass Drum Stand Assembly Instructions
(STBD32, STBD36, STBD40)

FAQ

1. Why is a maple shell better than a birch shell?

Pearl’s maple shells are  formed from 100% maple. This gives the drum a full rich tone, but also the strength needed to ensure the drum stays in round. They are formed with Pearl’s exclusive Heat Compression Shell Molding System (HCSMS). Special glue hardens to the same density of the drum allowing the shell to react as if it were formed from one single ply.

 

 

2. Why do Pearl concert series bass drums have six air holes?

Pearl concert series bass drums have 6 acoustically located air vents that allow for greater  sensitivity. Back pressure is also relieved to allow for unmatched response.

 

 

3. What are the sound characteristics of Pearl Philharmonic African Mahogany Concert Bass Drums and Toms? (Taken from Tech Speak by Gene Okamoto)

MASTERS MAHOGANY CLASSIC LIMITED EDITION
One of the biggest "buzzes" at the last Winter NAMM show was the introduction of Pearl's
Masters Mahogany Classic, MHX. Full and fat sounding, they were an immediate hit with artists and dealers. Marvin "Smitty" Smith recently switched to MHX's on the Tonight Show and was immediately complemented by band members on its great sound. To paraphrase Marvin, "This came as a pleasant surprise because the band is tough to impress." So, what makes these drums special? One word: MAHOGANY!

SOUNDS FAMILIAR
The Masters Mahogany Classic are the only professional mahogany drums in the world today. However, mahogany drums are not new. American drum makers used Mahogany for decades and only since the middle '70's did maple become the prominent wood in drum manufacturing. Virtually all drum tracks recorded prior to this time featured mahogany drums...Ringo played mahogany drums on early Beatles songs.

LET'S CLEAR THE CONFUSION
There seems to be confusion, however, about mahogany, especially regarding price. Browsing our and other manufacturer's catalogs, reveals that almost all beginner and mid-range sets are made with mahogany. MHX's, on the other hand, are priced like professional maple sets. If they're all made from mahogany, why are the prices so different?

To answer this, you have to understand that there's mahogany and then there's MAHOGANY! Beginner and mid-range sets are made with Philippine mahogany. Philippine mahogany is an abundant and therefore relatively inexpensive wood. On the other hand, the Masters Mahogany Classics are made with African Mahogany. This is the real deal, the big Kahuna, the cat's meow. There are only three true mahoganies in the world and African mahogany is one of them. African mahogany doesn't come cheap thus explaining the price differences.

CONSTRUCTION
In the beginning of this section I mentioned older mahogany drums. I know I'm nitpicking but most of these drums were not mahogany, at least, not all the way through. Most vintage mahogany drums featured 3 ply shells made with mahogany and softer woods such as poplar. They were steam bent and joined at one seam. Maple glue rings were installed for strength and to help keep the drums round. This form of construction made the drums sound exceptionally warm. Unfortunately, by today's standards, the shells were not very rigid and they absorbed much of the sound; in other words, they weren't very loud.

The MHX's, on the other hand, feature 4 ply 100% African mahogany shells with 100% maple glue rings. They're formed using Pearl's exclusive Heat Compression Shell Molding System (HC/SMS) that assures tightly bonded and rigid shells. The combination of extra strength and 100% mahogany makes these drums "sing" loud and clear while still retaining the full, rich, warm "mahogany" tone.

FINISH
Speaking of vintage mahogany drums, did you ever see the finish on these drums? Most had lots of pits and valleys where the finish didn't fill...that's because mahogany is very porous and very difficult to finish. Now look at the Masters Mahogany Classic...smooth as glass- you can practically comb you hair in the reflection. They're finished in Red Mahogany (#141)...elegant and classic for generations to enjoy.

GOING, GOING...
Hopefully by now you're a little bit curious about the Masters Mahogany Classic's and want to check them out. That's good. I did my job. Bye. But seriously...they may be hard to find because they're limited edition. Ask you local authorized Pearl dealer to order a set (please be patient) and take them for a test drive. I think you'll feel as I do that they're worth the wait.

- Gene Okamoto

 

 

4. How do I fine tune my Pearl Philharmonic Concert Snare Drum?  

FINE TUNING YOUR PEARL PHILHARMONIC SNARE DRUM

CONGRATULATIONS on purchasing a Pearl Philharmonic Snare Drum. This instrument represents the state of the art in an orchestral snare drum with many new and unique features. These drums were designed in conjunction with many top orchestral players to produce the best possible sound, highest quality, and ease of operation to provide a lifetime of beautiful sound and flawless operation. Please read the following instructions to assist you with your new and unique instrument in order to appreciate the full musical and mechanical possibilities.

CUSTOM FEATURES:

TRIAD SILENT STRAINER SYSTEM, THREE SNARE TYPES, CUSTOM CABLE SNARES INCLUDING GRADUATED AND EVEN TENSION, THREE INDIVIDUAL THUMBSCREW TENSION ADJUSTERS,

EASY ON/OFF SNARE MOUNTING (drum key only, no tools required), SNARE BRIDGE, VINTAGE STYLE SNARE BED, SOLID MAPLE SHELL, CAST ALUMINUM SHELL, VINTAGE STYLE TUBE LUGS

FIRST TIME SET UP/FINE TUNING

A. HEADS: Your Pearl Philharmonic is shipped with a Remo Diplomat batter head and a Remo Diplomat snare head. Plastic heads generally take about three months to settle and reach an optimum point of stretch. You may tune your drum as you wish, however we recommend that you initially tune your batter head in the range of G-Bb for 6.5 drum and Ab-B for a 5.0 drum. The bottom head should sound a harmonic fifth above the batter head on a 6.5 drum and a harmonic fourth above on a 5.0 drum. Note: It is extremely difficult to hear the harmonic pitch described. However, if you simply place your drum on a stand with the snare strainer turned OFF and lightly tap both heads individually about two inches from the rim, you should be able to hear it. You must do this in a good quiet environment. It is also recommended that you check the pull down evenness of the heads via a ruler or a veneer caliper. Either one will help make sure that you are at a good starting point by measuring the relation of the counter hoop to the head or the counter hoop to the top of the lugs. You should then listen and clear the head by ear once you have made these initial adjustments. Be sure not to try and bring your drum up to its highest possible range right away. Allow your heads to stretch and settle slowly at least over a few weeks or you will only over torque them and render them useless. The sound will become dull and devoid of tone and ring.

B. STRAINER AND BUTT: The unique Triad Silent Strainer requires virtually no adjustment whatsoever. Designed with that in mind, it offers the smoothest and most quiet operation possible, even with one finger and at high snare tension levels. The feel remains light and smooth no matter how you like your snares adjusted, and they can be turned on and off quickly and effortlessly during the softest musical passages.

BUTT: The snare butt offers a master tension adjustment to tighten or loosen all snares simultaneously. It also offers three easy on/off drum key screws to quickly change snare sets WITHOUT THE USE OF TOOLS! All you need is your drum key (included) to change a set of snares. No allen wrenches, no pliers, no cumbersome mounting cables or strings. Note: WARNING!!! NEVER UNSCREW OR TAMPER WITH THE SOCKET HEAD SCREWS WHICH CLAMP CABLES IN PLACE, THESE ARE PERMANENT!!!

REMOVING SNARES: If you wish to change a set of snares and create your own combinations from original Pearl parts, simply unscrew the thumb tension knob on the strainer side completely, then unscrew the corresponding drum key screw on the butt side. It’s that simple! It was designed with speed and ease of operation in mind so that you can change a set of snares in 60 seconds.

C. SNARE FEATURES: Your Pearl Philharmonic Snare System has several unique features. The COATED CABLE is clamped in permanently with a graduated tension system. This gives you the maximum dynamic range possible from this set of cables which are intended for the loudest dynamic ranges. Other systems generally have these cables all at one tension which require the player to attempt to tilt these snares to achieve a graduated tension, which is cumbersome, requires tools, and is usually a failure. Without our unique graduated tension snares, the higher tension required for their dynamic range only causes choking of the bottom head and poor loud snare response. The COATED CABLE is designed to respond perfectly and effectively from ff to mf respectively without any gaps in that range and without distorting or choking the sound of the bottom head. The UNCOATED STAINLESS cable is clamped in permanently as well, but is set in an even tension system. This provides extremely even snare contact with the bottom head for the mf to mp dynamic range without distorting the sound of the bottom head due to their significantly lower tension level. The SNAPPY WIRE snares are placed in the middle of the other two to assure perfect flat contact with the snare head which minimizes excess snare buzz, and provides a superior soft dynamic snare response. They are intended for the mp to ppp dynamic range and are deliberately not plated steel wires which provides 100% more snare presence and response than chromed wires.

D. SNARE BRIDGE: The snare bridge is designed to assist the way all snares lay in the snare bed thus providing perfect snare level contact with the snare head as well as facilitating the conforming of the cables to the snare bed. This feature ensures complete contact of your cables, particularly at each end of the head, where most snare systems have a slight gap between the cable and the head. The snare bed is specifically designed to be short and quick so as not to overly affect the pitch of the bottom head and facilitate complete snare contact.

E. FINE TUNING THE SNARES: Turn the strainer to the ON position. First, make sure all three sets of snares are completely disengaged and are not touching the bottom head. Begin with your COATED CABLE by turning the thumb screw clockwise until they begin to engage. As they come into range, strike the drum at a f to ff volume so that they are filling that dynamic range. Next, repeat this procedure with your UNCOATED STAINLESS cable. Turn the thumb knob clockwise until they fill the mf to mp dynamic range while striking the drum at that volume. Next, repeat this procedure with your SNAPPY WIRE snares while tapping the drum about an inch from the edge at the mp to ppp dynamic range. Turn the thumb knob clockwise until they fill the mp to ppp dynamic range. Leave your strainer in the ON position when storing your drum. This will facilitate the conformation of the cables to the snare bed and snare bridge which will eventually create a "custom snare fit" to the drum over time, improving their sound and response.

 

 

5. Pearl offers some of the lightest educational kits on the market, how much do they weigh?

The PK-600 bell kit, with its nylon backpack, weighs 12 lbs. The PK-750 bell kit weighs in at 18 lbs. The SK-700 snare kit with nylon backpack weighs 17 lbs. The SK-750 snare kit with the molded plastic case weighs 22 lbs. And the PL-600 percussion kit weighs 21 lbs.


 
 
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