Tech Speak is a regular segment of the Pearl Drummers' Resources and features articles pertaining to Pearl drums and (sometimes) drumming in general. It is written by Gene Okamoto and Raymond Massey, Pearl's resident nuts and bolts guys.

SET-UP TIPS for the PEARL FFX-505N PIPE SNARE DRUM

100% MAPLE SHELL
Part of the great sound of the FFX-505N is attributable to its 100% MAPLE shell. Maple produces a different sound than birch-it has a fuller, richer tone, and carries better than birch. This sound, however, is new to many. Therefore, with the assistance of Harry Meade from City of Washington Pipe Band, we've put together the following set-up tips. Use this as a starting point to get your Pearl Pipe Snare Drum sounding great in minutes!

STEP 1:
Tighten the top head to playing tightness (table-top tight) using a criss-cross pattern similar to Diagram 1 shown below. If you wish, once the head is reasonably tight, you can go around in circles as shown in Diagram 2. It's easier to "keep your place" using the circle method (that is, until you're distracted, which invariably happens!).

Reid Maxwell suggests using a dime as a feeler gauge to set the top head as evenly as possible before final tuning. Using either of the tensioning methods below, place the dime next to each tension rod until the hoop just clears the dime. Let the head "settle" overnight. Reid then turns each tension rod ½ turn until the desired pitch is nearly achieved then "pinches" the head to the desired pitch by using progressively smaller turns of the drum key (1/4 —> 1/8 —> 1/16 —> etc.).

Diagram 1 "Criss Cross"

Diagram 2 "In Circles"

STEP 2:
Turn the lower key bolt counterclockwise to turn the upper snares OFF (so they're not touching the top head).


Turn the bottom key bolt counterclockwise to turn the upper snares OFF.

STEP 3:
Turn the snare drum over and remove the bottom snares.


To remove the snares, loosen the large knobs on each side of the drum as shown above and lift the snares off the pegs.

STEP 4:
Tighten the snare head evenly to the desired pitch. The tighter you set the snare head, the higher the overall pitch of the drum will be. Many drummers tighten the bottom head just before competition to raise the pitch of the drum without tightening the top head. Pearl's ST snare heads are 4 mil thick, 1 mil thicker than Ambassador weight snare heads, thus giving them extraordinary durability without sacrificing sensitivity.


Playing "rimshots" with your finger while tuning allows the pitches to be heard more clearly.

STEP 5:
Replace the bottom snares and take the slack out of the wires by turning the snare tension adjustment knobs as shown.


Tighten until the slack is removed from the snares, do not overtighten.

STEP 6:
Adjust the height of the snares so they contact the head squarely at the snare beds. Visually make this adjustment or better yet, lightly "strum" the snares and listen to the sound of the wires: they should just touch the head without buzzing.


Strum the snares like a guitar while adjusting the height of the snares. When properly set, the snares will touch the head without buzzing.

STEP 7:
Turn the drum right side up. With the top snares still in the OFF position, play the drum and adjust the bottom snare tension knobs until the desired bottom snare response is achieved. Many drummers prefer to keep the bottom snares relatively loose.

STEP 8:
Turn the top snares to the ON position by turning the height adjustment key bolt (lower key bolt) clockwise until it just "kisses" the top head. If needed, tighten the top snares (upper key bolt) for better contact.


Turn the lower adjustment bolt clockwise while tapping the head until you hear the snares just "kiss" the top head.


Inside view of the top snares just touching the top head.

STEP 9:
Now turn the height adjustment key bolt (bottom key bolt) 1½ turns more clockwise. This is just a starting point. From here lower or raise the top snare unit to achieve the desired snare response. Personally, I like to start "high" and then lower the snares until the desired response is achieved.


If you see the ends of the snares indenting the head, you probably have the upper snares too high. This chokes the sound and makes playing more difficult.

STEP 10:
Adjust the tension of the top snares to your preference by turning the upper key bolt (clockwise to tighten and counterclockwise to loosen).


The Pearl FFX-505N has the tension and height adjustment screws on the same side of the drum for quick and easy setting changes.

STEP 11:
Fine adjust the height and tension of the top snares, the tension of the bottom snares, and the pitch of the top and bottom heads as needed.

Special Thanks
I'd like to thank Harry Meade of the City of Washington Pipe Band for his expertise and tremendous assistance on this project and Raymond Massey for his assistance with the photos (those are his hands!).

I hope that you found this article helpful. If you have any questions or comments, please contact me at geneokamoto@pearldrums.com.

Gene Takes Up Pipe Drumming
Last August (2000), I had the opportunity along with David Howe, VP of Sales/Marketing, to observe and help staff the Pearl booth at the World Pipe Band Championships in Glasgow, Scotland. I have to admit that, at the time, I didn't have a clue about pipe drumming other than perhaps five things: 1) the drums are tuned really high; 2) they have two sets of snares; 3) the music is written on two lines; 4) they play lots of buzz rolls; and 5) the players wear kilts.

So we arrive at the venue in the early morning and it's already tree-to-tree pipe music. I'll be frank, I never liked the sound of bagpipes but after listening to them for hours nonstop and I mean NONSTOP, I found the sound tolerable if not beautiful.

Just as ubiquitous was the sound of pipe drumming. For the first time, I realized that pipe drumming wasn't just a bunch of buzz rolls but a very intricate style of drumming with lots of subtle and difficult "stuff" going on! This was the real-deal, and I felt lucky that I wasn't struck by lightning for all the times I faked my way though "Scotland the Brave."

Our booth was sold to the Band Room, the must-go-to store in Glasgow. After making our delivery, I asked Joe Noble, the proprietor, to recommend a pair of sticks and a book. He selected a pair of sticks, handed them to me and said, "Let me see you play!" I never played drum corps but I gave my best imitation of corps-style rudiments. I shouldn't have. Joe squinted his eyes, looked at me, and said, "Ah! American DCI! Let me show you how we play in Scotland!" Joe was a former World Champion and he demonstrated why! My God! Forget about being like Mike, I wanted to be like Joe! Joe gave me the sticks (Eric Ward Signatures nonetheless!) and a book with tape.

In the car, I opened the book to see what I got myself into. I'm not a bad reader but after the first few pages, I couldn't make heads or tails of what was going on! Things didn't improve much at home even with the tape.

Luckily in October, I went to the Stone Mountain Highland Games in Atlanta, Georgia and met Roy Barbee and Carol Davis from Nashville Pipes and Drums. They invited me to visit one of their Monday night rehearsals and several weeks later I summoned the courage to do so. Roy gave me a stack of personally written exercises that demystified many of the figures used in Scottish drumming and both he and Carol showed me a few how-to things to get started. The rest, as they say, is history. I now play in NP&D's Grade 4 band and am enjoying the drumming and camaraderie immensely. As all of you who play pipe drums know, this is fun stuff!

Happy Drumming!

Gene Okamoto
Product Manager